A warm floor in a wooden house is an important detail of comfortable life and the common comfort of the house. This issue is especially relevant for residents of the first floors and private houses. Under them is not a warm floor, but an ice top, so the floor temperature often leaves much to be desired, especially in winter. In modern approaches to construction, it is recommended to do especially carefully thermal insulation of the first floor, options are offered that significantly improve this situation.
But it is one thing to have just a cold floor, not icy, and quite another is warm. Various systems of additional floor heating allow you to feel the long -awaited heat in winter, improve heating and, as a result, improve your own health. The most important area of heating for human comfort is the first meter and a half from the floor level. As you know, warm air rises up, so the heating of the floor is an excellent means of creating comfort in the house. There are even main heating systems built into the floor.
Warm -floor systems are divided into 2 types:
Water
Electric
Water warm floor in a wooden house
Water is usually used as a coolant. Water heated to 40 or more degrees circulates through a pipeline laid throughout the area, and warms nearby surfaces. Any can be used, although, of course, modern plastic and metal -plastic materials are usually used.
The pipeline is connected to a central or autonomous heating of this type as a gas or electric boiler. Special pumping equipment is embedded in the system that provides water circulation in pipes.
Advantages:
Safety.
Freedom in choosing an interior, carpets, heavy furniture are acceptable.
Flaws:
The complexity of installation.
Concrete screed is recommended about 5 cm.
Efficiency is slightly less than with electric systems.
Installation
A layer of heat -insulating materials is laid on the base in front of the pipes. This allows you to reduce the heat loss of the house itself and improve the operation of the system, since the developed energy will go less into the underput and more upstairs. If installation is done on the second or more floor, you can skip this moment so that the heating effect is distributed to both the lower and upper floor.
Pipes can be located spirally — this is the outline «Snail», or a snake — this is the circuit «Zmeyevik». It is not recommended to make a closed circuit with a length of more than 100 m. Ideally, the floor temperature should be evenly warm. By circulating through the pipes, the water will cool and heat up again, reaching the heating element of the heating system. If the path is too long, the water will cool too much and not provide the desired floor temperature. In addition, this is an additional load on the heating element: there is more energy consumption to heating the water than to maintain the required temperature.
There are different methods of fastening pipes:
With the help of brackets is one of the most time -consuming methods that does not justify itself due to the unaesthetic type of finished design. However, any, even the most beautiful system, ideally should close the concrete screed;
with the help of guides in the form of rails with special grooves into which the pipes are closed, their other side is reliably glued;
Using special plastic brackets. They are often present in a set of “warm floor systems” along with thermal insulation material;
With the help of special mounting sheets that have small bosses on one side — this is perhaps the easiest and at the same time a reliable method: the ease of installation is combined with the strength of pipe fixing in a given position.
Close the water system is recommended to be a concrete screed.This allows you to hide all possible irregularities, additionally fix the water pipes in the floor, protect them from the load and damage. Concrete conducts heat well and can keep it in itself for a long time, heating the surrounding surfaces. This is a stone, only artificial. Stoves, fireplaces from time immemorial have been made from materials imitating stone.
The average step of fastening the pipes of the water system with the subsequent concrete screed is approximately 20-30 cm. A dampfer tape is laid along the perimeter of the room. Due to the natural thermal expansion, the screed may crack, while the damper allows you to leave a small distance between the wall and the screed that compensates for these processes. To save funds, you can replace the damper with polystyrene trimming.
The thickness of the concrete screed depends on many parameters. So that the concrete layer hides the pipes well, unevenness, has a sufficient margin of strength, this value should be at least 5 cm. The screed is made in the usual way from the usual cement-sand mixture. You can buy cement and mix with sand, or you can apply the finished CPS, the difference in price is not great.
Using the level, the level of future sex is determined and the corresponding tags on the walls are set. Tightly stretched threads on the marks between opposite walls draw the height of the floor in space. Here the question of the thickness of the screed is just being resolved. There should not be without any special indications of the slope, and, depending on the slope of the existing surface, the screed can be somewhere thicker, somewhere thinner.
Lightakers are exhibited using profiles. You can use bars.
The solution of the cement-sand mixture is laid out to a height slightly higher than the lighthouses, leveled by the rule, then polished to a beautiful flat surface with a warden.
Drying. Depending on the temperature conditions and the characteristics of the solution, this requires different times. The minimum term for gaining strength is 12 hours. Concrete can not gain final strength of concrete soon, let’s say, after 3-7 days. So that he does not crack during this period, he is sprayed with water.
The surface is polished by a grout machine.
Without concrete screed «Warm floor» is less effective, less reliable, but allows you not to overload the structure. The wooden floor of a private house may not be designed for the tremendous weight of concrete plus the weight of the “warm floor” system, the weight of the entire floor: people, furniture, etc. D. To reduce the load, you can abandon the concrete layer, closing the system with a floorboard, lining of a small thickness — about 20 mm. The thicker layer will interfere with the warming of the floor. You can lay the pipes between the second lags (or in them) in the double sex system.
Electric warm floor for wooden houses
Advantages:
Compactness.
Simplicity of installation.
Flaws:
Fire hazard.
To avoid a random fire:
good waterproofing of the floor is necessary;
uniform location of the cable;
You can not lay a cable where heavy furniture is supposed;
It is not recommended to lay carpets;
The system is required in the system, the maximum set temperature is 40 degrees.
Installation
As when using the water system, the installation of the electric system begins with the styling of heat -insulating materials having a metallized surface. Next, all the necessary elements of the electric system, sensors, etc. are mounted. D. It is best to close this design with a thin concrete screed, but you can also a floorboard. The thickness of the wooden coating is not more than 24 mm. It is recommended to turn on the electric system and leave under load for two days. After that, you can make a finish coating.